Showing posts with label Ireland. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Ireland. Show all posts

Monday, March 14, 2016

The Troubles (Na Trioblóidí)


Irish people refer to their civil war as "The Troubles", in a shy euphemism that reveals the gentleness of a warm, kind, generously hospitable people aghast at the suddenly vicious violence that broke out, assisted as it was by outside economic interests. False divides in homelands are disturbing to live under, because it implies that families cannot live together, similarly constructed as the fair people of "The Emerald Isle" are. I have ancestry from Galway and County Tyrone, which, in centuries gone by, would have presented me with the unenviable task of choosing sides before military zones were demarcated by England, familiar as these lines are now, but hard still. Who would you choose? Which side? Your Protestant son and his family, or the Catholic boy living just outside of Dublin? Why did we ever have to choose?

It's the same around the globe, like the same epic battle fought between Cain and Abel we repeat in these disordered histories around the world, as walls built to separate instead of unite. We've seen it throughout time: The Berlin Wall, The Great Wall of China, and a wrongly-felt nation of Korea now split as "North" and "South", just as the U.S. was once divided, too. When will we learn? Mothers and fathers said goodbye to sons and daughters who fought and died in the wars of wealthier people vested in key government positions, far above the grunts sent to fight conflicts that did not always benefit them back home. What would you do?

Who actually wins in these wars? Not us! On my last trip back to "Eire" (it was a big fat New York family trip, let's just leave it at that for now), we were blessed to have a border crossing that was told to us gently, knowing the changeover only when we stopped for gas and got British Sterling back as change, instead of the Euro that marks the currency for the Free Republic of Ireland. Scotland was recently given the chance to switch to an independent nation through a legal vote but declined, and I can't say I blame them as a people. England is far wealthier, like Puerto Rico's relationship with the United States. Would you cut ties with us quickly? Certainly not, and neither would a savvy mom like me who only wants what's best for her children, economically and otherwise.

You haven't seen poverty like the kind that we saw as Americans visiting in Ireland back in the day. My first trip to Ireland in the 80s was like a time machine trip; a country so poor, they still used the local bus to travel with their chickens in cages to sell in the markets of the bigger towns, like the sawdust strewn quickly and cheaply on the floor of a Brooklyn supermarket in the far-out neighborhood of Kensington that was such a long subway trip away from the big city, no one at my first job in publishing ever heard of it. That's changed, though the character remains the same, because genuine pockets for natives never really appeal to out-of-towners or hipsters, and if they do, it's short-lived.

But that's not our commitment to these homelands we love so much as immigrants. When my father and his wife came up last year for a brief visit, we went to Louie's for Sunday brunch on a day that was as briskly cold and sodden as those of "The Green Island" itself. He'd  asked for a quiet spot without music because of his poor hearing (a genetic disorder I share with him), and I instantly felt at home. One of our friends from Clarkstown South worked there as a waitress when we were in high school, and it remains a great local spot.

Our waitress was Irish, as was obvious from the lilt of her brogue. We fell into conversation easily, as we are wont to do here among family and friends, similar in tone to the pubs ("Public Houses" for short) we know so well overseas. She explained a little bit of her life to me, as the parents looked over the classically seasonal menu; she chose to have her sons born on American soil so they would know the the gift of freedom as dual citizens, and it was one of the most beautifully-said, softly-spoken words of progress I have ever heard. 

She went on to say that her life wasn't problem-free living in this new reality. Her husband struggled with his work Visa during her boy's senior year of high school, and we laughed over the difficulty of securing a driver's license through the careful navigation of all those Irish turn-abouts, with its level matched only by New York's requirements for a learner's permit. Poor kid! Her husband stayed with her oldest son throughout his last Irish school year while she remained in New York with her other children, working her part of their family.

She'd knew they'd get by as a family, what with her husband spending time with her boy in Ireland, and her here to keep their family foothold in both lands, and I immediately thought to myself "That's it!". This is the solution that each and every American has longed for: assimilation without regrets, the preservation of culture without the taint of "foreigner" to dull our united hearts, for who could choose better? How do you split your body and soul in half? You don't! Now, with better immigration laws and fairer practices for recent emigres, we're no longer forced to choose between siblings, or children and their grandmothers, because we can keep our families together.  

We really can have it all.


Thursday, October 31, 2013

Small Town America: Halloweentown


A total home reno. Oh, the horror. Hi, Pete!
I live in an Irish town, and let me clarify once again: not "Irish-American", but an actual hamlet that's predominantly 1st generation "off the boat", as they used to say, though now it's straight off the flight at JFK to Pearl River to the massive supermarket, with an Irish Foods section that's mostly tea, canned beans, and biscuits. I know, because I've seen the jet lagged Paddy wandering the massive store aisles with the same look of shell shock that I have when confronted with American excess. I also get it when I travel, though it's going across the pond in the other direction, with more crystal and wool sweater shopping involved. We have a shop for that here in town, too.

Wonder Woman!
There's been a recent interest in the spooky and supernatural in pop culture, what with teenage vampires and Sleepy Hollows that go bump in the night. Truthfully, the Hudson Valley has always been perfect for Halloween, because this is where the very traditions we celebrate as Americans began. Happy Samhain, Celts.

Yeah! I'm Batman, and you're SuperGirl!

Welcome to Halloweentown:

Monday, October 7, 2013

Faith: Horray!

 

When I was a kid, I thought this cartoon was about Catholicism, because I thought the people in yellow hooded robes were friars in habit. It seems funny to me now, but that's how I absorbed one of the most important early lessons we have; to be a fan of nature, to enjoy our natural resources as part of the miracle of creation, and to welcome dramatic events and happenings as part of the mystery of our faith. It made me happy to see brothers cheering the falls, happy to be witnesses to such a great spectacle. Yellow was also my favorite color. I was allowed to pick a paint color for my room as a kid, when it needed repainting, and this was close to the color I chose. When my mom asked me why I picked such a bright color, I said, "Because yellow is cheerful. It's bright and sunny. Like the sun."

It's certainly reflects how I feel about nature: a devoted fan of flora and fauna, and the beauty that's all around us. I don't remember the first time I went to Niagara Falls, and the second time I went (in winter), I was so sick that I forced myself through the experience, which seemed dramatically commercialized. The malls and the shopping centers surrounding Niagara seemed to almost overwhelm what was happening outside. I did buy an incredible pair of leather gloves from Canada, and that satisfied the Acadian part of me; seeing two sides of myself reconciled above one of nature's greatest forces, spanning across two countries. And that's how I now see this link between my childish perception and the reality of our practices - the perfect forging of two perspectives into one harmonious whole, which is exactly how it's supposed to be. Happy Monday to you!

Friars
http://www.ccr.org.uk/archive/gn0807/g11.htm.

Friday, March 1, 2013

March Blows In


It was one of those March days when the sun shines hot 
and the wind blows cold: when it is summer 
in the light, and winter in the shade. 

—Charles Dickens, Great Expectations

Good morning, dear readers! March is a very exciting time in New York. The weather turns from winter to spring and back again in the span of a day, and this town gets ready for the biggest parade of the year, the St. Patrick's Day Parade.

Most importantly, I get to break out my Irish gear and post pictures of me sporting it, because as most of you readers know, I am descended from the Corbetts' of Galway through my maternal grandfather. Incidentally, he bought me the Greek fisherman's cap you see me wearing in my new authors' photo to the right because I loved his so much, bought when my grandparents travelled the globe after his retirement from ConEdison.

Those of us who are also lucky enough to be Acadian come from a beautiful island called “New Scotland”, or now commonly known as Nova Scotia. We are a wonderfully eclectic blend of the French, Native American, and Celtic, and this month's wild weather ride, with its' rough storms and pelting rains, only drives the point home further for island people of the Northern Hemisphere.

Change is coming. Are you ready? 

Sláinte
Sláinte (SLAHN-chə) is a word literally translating as "health"[1] and is commonly used as a drinking toast in Ireland, Scotland and the Isle of Man.

Saturday, March 17, 2012

Everything Became Illuminated



I can't remember a time when I couldn't read, write, and draw. As a little girl, stories and pictures poured out of me, anytime I wanted them to. I said to my 4th grade teacher that I was writing a book that I would publish someday, and she huffed at me, "Yeah, sure you will." I also knew from an early age that I wasn't a cynic, working a teaching gig for summers off and a chance to crush childhood dreams. That summer, I taught myself to use the old manual typewriter my parents kept downstairs. What a beast. To this day, I hate typing, and lo and behold, I am nobody's secretary. Last year, I sent around some of my illustrations with a revised version of those rhymes I'd written as a child, that my mother saved from a sketchbook of mine. A literary agent told me it was the best submission she'd read in a long time.

My parents said I begged them to go to school so I could read. I went to a pre-school before kindergarten, and after-school programs at the local library. I loved the cool quiet of libraries, searching for books in card catalogs. I learned to research expertly, skills that amaze people today—the quickness with which I can find information, process it, coalesce it, design it, and publish it. But growing up, I had no idea what it was. I wasn't a "painter" in the traditional sense: still lives and portraits grew tiresome. There are so many out there already. What was I really adding to the world, that any of the Dutch painters hadn't said definitively centuries ago? It was a closed conversation for me. I wasn't strictly a "writer" either. I could care less about the finer points of grammar and punctuation. Those were items for teachers to find and correct, as they scribbled over sheets of loose leaf paper with big red pens. As far as I was concerned, it was a lesser talents attempt to have sway over artistic output. I sure as heck wasn't a journalist or an editor, so...what was this?


I left home for college at 17. I took a job at the campus library around the same time I started to wrap my mind around the world of professional art. As I poured over issues of Step-by-Step Graphics and Communication Arts in the periodical section where I worked, I had no idea how to get those jobs, but I knew I could do the work in the magazines. I started taking my first college-level studio classes, and I did really well. The trade journals identified most of the work I saw as "illustrations", so I made the firm decision to apply to those programs at elite schools. At the same time, I was busy fulfilling liberal arts requirements, especially English Lit and Art History. I actually liked written tests, essays, and papers, because I could fully express myself, providing reasoned arguments with footnoted scholarly references. How freeing!

One afternoon, in a large, darkened lecture hall packed with freshmen, I saw a slide of an illuminated manuscript, and every synapse in brain lit up at the sight of it. "Ohhhh...", I breathed to myself and sat up straight, moving my hands across the desk, gripping the top edge and tilting forward my seat. The ground shook for me, intellectually. A conversion of elements combined together. The class went on, oblivious to my newfound awareness: the Bible, Johann Gutenberg, the advent of the printing press, the wide dispersion of information, William Blake, Benjamin Franklin...Yeah!! This made sense to me. When I did a Google search for this piece, I found a link to the Oneonta Art History class I took that is still taught today, with the same great, classical curriculum: http://employees.oneonta.edu/farberas/arth/arth109/arth109_sl17.html.

I find The Book of Kells to be the most beautiful piece of art I have ever seen. It just does it for me, in a way that no other art form does. I knew I had to see it in person. And like so many things in my vocational life, a trip landed itself at my feet. My college boyfriends' brother started working as a baggage handler at Aer Lingus. We got really cheap tickets to Europe, and we were off one summer to Amsterdam first, then Dublin, then Galway. It was the last of the pre-Euro days, in the early 90s, when travel was a lot less frequent. Typically, I am a nervous flier, but as I found myself sipping champagne in my seat, I felt a calm wash over me that was beyond the alcohol. We flew overseas with a gaggle of young priests and nuns, and the actor Brian Dennehy, who had supposedly acquired a pub in Dublin. 
 

We stayed in an upscale bed and breakfast in the Ballsbridge section of Dublin, that had a hole in the bathroom floor, next to the toilet, which served as a shower drain. The proprietress knocked on our door early afternoon, asking us to draw back the curtains to our room, because she didn't want the neighbors to gossip. She asked us if we were married, and we told her we were engaged. Thankfully I always wore my Claddagh ring in the correct way, because she didn't turn us out. She did, however, give us the times for mass services on Sunday at the church on the corner. She was relieved we were Catholic. We asked her about visiting Trinity College. She discouraged us from going, saying it was a tourist trap, not worth the time.

There was no internet page to consult, or cell phones to call ahead, so early Monday morning, we arrived at the college to see the most famous Illuminated Manuscript on the planet, The Book of Kells. And the library was closed. I had travelled all this way to see it, and the next day we were scheduled to fly to Galway. I steeled myself, and gave my boyfriend the bad news. He ranted, raved, sulked, pouted, argued, but to no avail. There was nothing else I could do but stay on another day. Back then, there was no fancy exhibit. You simply paid a small fee, then climbed the stairs to the long room, where the oldest books are kept. I found it to be the most beautiful library I have ever seen. The shelves stretched up and down, punctuated with staircases, ladders, annotations, all manner of arcane reading material. 


As we made our way down the hall, towards the end of the room where it is kept, I remember craning over the velvet ropes that blocked tourist access to the shelves, just to get a look at the cracked leather bindings. After a quick scan back and forth, I leaned over to graze my hand over the tallest and oldest bound Bible I had seen, next to the Gutenbergs. I knew I would remember this moment for the rest of my life: the light that poured through the windows, and the window that opened in my heart. I felt less alone than I had ever felt in my life. Sure enough, when we got to The Book of Kells, it was opened to a rather plain text page, but I didn't care. I saw with my eyes that it was possible to make a book worthy of veneration and importance. 

My then-boyfriend spent the days' bus ride grumbling that I had ruined his trip, but I didn't care. I did it for me, and I knew it was the right thing to do. He stopped pouting about 3 hours in, as we giggled about the country people who got on the bus with geese and chickens. Ireland was not a frequently travelled place at that time. It was the most fun we had. When we got to Galway, the owner of the bed and breakfast we booked came to get us in her car, after we called her from the tourist center, soaking wet from a downpour. Within half an hour, we had our feet by a cheerful, roaring fire in her house, with delicious tea and gorgeous, handmade scones. Thank you, Berna Kelly :) http://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/ShowUserReviews-g186609-d254120-r50012494-Devondell-Galway_County_Galway.html.


After transferring to art school, I still had tons of exploring. I didn't like calligraphy; that's for cards. It wasn't graphic design either. I didn't want to just set the type and lay out other peoples' work. I wanted to write and make pictures. The closest courses I could find were for children's book illustration, but most illustrators are content to have someone else write the books they create images for. Nah, it's not that. I had a voice. I took a class in Artists Books, but it was a fine art class about creative expression. I did learn about bookbinding, acquiring a bone folder and the thread used to sew signatures. I worked and took classes and graduated without bonding to any single creative vision offered at the school. I had no idea what the modern equivalent of an illuminator was.

What to do? I had the beginnings of an illustration portfolio and a solid photography portfolio. My first two interviews were as darkroom technicians for two very famous female photographers. I didn't get those, because, you know, I had my own style. A good friend from high school and I were chatting on the phone about our job searches as recent grads, and I told him I had applied to publishing positions, too. One of our classmates worked PR for a house, so when I got the call for the interview, he introduced me to my new boss and gave her my resumé. So it began in earnest. I saw book design for the first time in my life and that made sense to me. I always wondered where artisans and scribes worked in these times, and here was the answer: Publishing.

I became the first artist to work in their Manufacturing department, so
I set about learning the ropes. Not much time into my apprenticeship,
I moved upstairs to the Art Department to learn about the craft of book cover design. It's taken me awhile to accept that I am not some relic from the past, nor a creative anachronism, but the real life version of an artist who is derived from those ancient traditions. It can be challenging finding the right niche, but when I do, everything clicks into place. It's a rare life that's often hard to explain to outsiders, but I wouldn't have it any other way. And I owe it all to The Book of Kells.

In memoriam Bernard (Barney) Corbett.

Me on the steps of the Trinity College Library, Monday morning.

Céad míle fáilte.


Tuesday, March 13, 2012

The Happiest Place on Earth


The Guinness Factory
I know what you were thinking...Tijuana!! Disneyland? Las Vegas? Nope, none of those. The happiest place on earth is The Guinness Factory in Dublin, Ireland, and I should know. I was there with the family in '07. My middle brother had such a great time, he went back the next day with a group of us on our tour. I snapped pics on the walk over in excited anticipation. Oh boy oh boy oh boy.

Stairway to Heaven
My middle bro kept a quick pace, waving away most of the exhibits. Truth be told, there's gold at the end of this rainbow. After buying a ticket, (which makes the bearer feel like Charlie from Willy Wonka and the Chocolate Factory), you take a series of winding ramps upwards towards bright sky. It's a beautiful piece of contemporary architecture, a unique blend of the old and new.

A barrel of fun
The multi-media exhibits explain their special brewing process and long history as brewers. This large cask once used for beer now contains a bunch of artfully arranged flat screens that display tour information as you make your journey upward.

Heaven, Nirvana, Paradise, whatever

But, oh there at the top, there it is. A 360° view of Dublin! It is a stunning way to see the city. Included with the price of admission, you get one of these —-—-—-—-—-—-—-—-—->
which you exchange at The Sky Bar for your complimentary pint of "the dark stuff". A few were left at the bar (WTF?!), so I quickly pocketed two. Every glass paperweight contains a drop of their brew in an air bubble specially designed to contain it. The pair found a home on one of my bookcase shelves, as prized and proudly displayed souvenirs.

Follow your bliss
It was the best time I had during a harried and hectic family tour. 
We travelled with four small kids, Grandma in her wheelchair (pushed over crowded, narrow cobblestoned streets, and old sites that pre-dated ramps), and various other family members arriving, leaving, and taking different tours; a total of 14. It was like herding cats. This one brief moment in time felt like perfection. As I savored my drink, I could taste the care and time spent in crafting it. Suddenly, like a break in the clouds, me and my Irish twin found ourselves seated at a table, just the two of us, looking at each other in amazement, with relaxed, easy grins on our faces as we toasted and hoisted pints. Slainté!

May the road rise up to meet you.
May the wind always be at your back.
May the sun shine warm upon your face,
and rains fall soft upon your fields.
And until we meet again,
May God hold you in the palm of His hand.